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Japanese Entertainment

2/21/2015

2 Comments

 

By Jed

As mentioned in our previous blog posts, Japan has a lot of interesting and different cultural experiences from the U.S. One such difference that is near and dear to my heart is entertainment. Here is a little bit about the highlights of Japanese entertainment:
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Golden Gai (Tokyo)
Like in America, drinking is one of the favorite pastimes of young (and old) Japanese. One of the most interesting places to get a drink is the “Golden Gai” district in Tokyo. It is an area about 8 square blocks filled with old 1-2 story buildings, each containing a TINY bar...and I mean tiny. The occupancy of these bars varies from about 4 seats to as “big” as about 15 seats. The bars are so small that you need to squeeze in tight and cozy with everyone inside.

We didn't know which of the over 200 bar to go to, so we randomly picked one that looked interesting up a set of steep, tiny stairs. Upon entering, we were greeted by the bartender (who is literally 1 foot away from the entrance). As there were only 4 other seats, and we didn't have any elbow room between us, we got some nice cultural interactions at the bars here. We highly recommend hopping around the bars in this district, but note that many charge a cover charge since space is so limited.

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Climbing the stairs to the bar
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Inside the bar
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With our new friend
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Head almost touching the ceiling
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Karaoke and Arcades

Probably the most well-known Japanese entertainment export, it is still a whole different ballgame here. There are mega-complexes (12+ stories tall) everywhere you turn that are devoted exclusively to Karaoke; and many are open all night. We of course had to check it out and went to a karaoke complex late night after a few drinks; post-bar is the most popular time to go. It feels very professional to go to a karaoke complex...more like going to the movies than like going to the bar (as it usually is in the U.S.). You enter into a sparkling lobby with many employees behind the desk, you book a personal room from one of many different options and you get an awesome menu full of food and drink options which will be delivered to your room. Ala “Lost In Translation” style, all the karaoke here is done in private rooms. We weren't sure if it would be as much fun singing without the public humiliation aspect, but once the music came on, we were enjoying being in our own little karaoke world. The hour flew by and we were wishing we had more time. It took half our time just flipping through the song choice book.... it is literally bigger than the bible. Opening up one of these karaoke complexes in the U.S. may be our post-travel profession.

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Figuring out how to work this thing
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Caitlin's Turn
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About just as common as karaoke are arcades. Nearly everywhere you turn, there are massive arcades full of thousands of loud, flashy games. Caitlin and I ventured in one, but most of the games were pretty hard to figure out for English-only speakers. We did manage to play a game where we both got to beat on giant drums in rhythm to the music. Unfortunately, we couldn't figure out how to change the song, so we were pretty tired of the game after the third time banging out “Let it Go.”  

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Robot Restaurant (Tokyo)

What is the “Robot Restaurant”? Well, that is kind of hard to explain. I'm still not quite sure what it is, but lets just say that it is the kind of thing that only makes sense in Tokyo. It is a dinner show that supposedly cost $100 million to make (which is obviously a gigantic lie), but it is almost believable after seeing the crazy elaborate dinner show. The show consists of an over-the-top light show, pyrotechnics, giant video walls, costumed characters, segways, yelling Japanese girls and, of course, robots. The whole show is an odd collection of scenes that don't make much sense. Some of the show's sequences included 10 foot robots dancing in unison, a women riding a giant, robotic snake which ate an “evil” woman and a mock robot boxing match. It was random, nonsensical, crazy...and amazing. I don't know why I enjoyed it so much, but something so weird, elaborate and “techy” is not something I have ever witnessed and felt so right at home in Tokyo. Obviously, this is hard to explain with words (and even photos), so you must watch this short two minute video I took of the night. Seriously, if you like seeing weird things and being confused, press play!


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Spa World (Osaka)

On the opposite side of the spectrum from the hyper spectacle of the Robot Restaurant is “Spa World.” Forced into it by Caitlin, I didn't regret it in the end. Spa world consists of two levels, separated by gender, one which is themed “Asia” and one which is themed “Western.” I was certainly a bit intimated to partake as it is completely nude. Being naked in public is usually reserved for my recurring dreams. Additionally, it is a very “local” place: there was maybe one other tourist there. Once you get into the locker room, it is a bit confusing as I saw a bunch of people dressed in robes, which I did not have, so I had no idea what I was supposed to do. I didn't want to be the one weird naked white guy walking around. After some confusing conversations with the staff, I figured out that the robes are for post-spa relaxing and so off I went naked into a brave new world.

On each floor, there are about a dozen different hot spring baths and other spa activities designed based on the theme. For example, on my floor (western themed), there was an outdoor spanish-inspired hot tub with waterfall, an italian inspired grotto jacuzzi, a Finnish style salt sauna, etc. Despite the initial uncomfortableness, it was pretty relaxing. My favorite part of the place was definitely the massive post-spa nap room, complete with a dozen big screen tvs, about 100 fully reclining leather chairs (each with individual speakers) and full bar. It was an amazingly peaceful place, aside from the hundreds of people snoring.

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Grotto (these pics taken from website)
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Greece Medicine Bath
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Finnish Sauna Room
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Kabuki Theater

One of the oldest forms of Japanese entertainment, we felt like we had to check it out. Fortunately for us, they give you the option of paying for just one of the three acts instead of watching the whole show. Since the show is in Japanese (with some monotone translation in a speaker), and we have a pretty short attention span, this was the way to go. Nevertheless, we still both managed to fall asleep. If you ever need a good nap, Kabuki seems to be the trick. =) It was interesting to see the performance and partake in some more traditional Japanese culture, even if it was for only a few minutes of awake time.  


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Food

Eating in Japan is also a form of entertainment (at least for a tourist). From the cooking done in front of you at Hibachi (called Teppenyaki in Japan) to conveyor belt sushi, eating can be quite an experience. Conveyor belt sushi has come to some suburbs around America, but it is a much bigger deal in Japan. If you are not familiar with conveyor sushi, the way it works is the sushi goes round and round the entire restaurant on plates color coded by price. If something looks appetizing, you just grab it and enjoy. By the end, you have a shame pile of plates stacked up in front of you, but it typically ends up being quite reasonably priced. Another experience in Japan is ordering Ramen (one of our faves). Ordering is done on a surprisingly low-tech vending machines that look like a cigarette dispenser. Because it is all in Japanese, I am never quite sure what I am getting, but pushing a few various buttons usually produced a yummy gigantic bowl of Ramen in front of me, so it was all good. Japanese BBQ, Yakitori and Sushi chefs also provided some great fun and definitely good eating.

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Conveyor Sushi
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DOUBLE Conveyor Sushi
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My Fave, Habachi!
Japan is definitely a stimulating place. I don't know how the people there are used to the bright lights and people with mega phones shouting in your ear from the store fronts. It is an extremely interesting and unique place and we felt like we were just barely dipping into all that Japan has to offer. Can't wait to go back and belt out a few more tunes and take another nap at the spa.
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Hiroshima: Why Don't Humanity and Science Progress at the Same Rate?

2/12/2015

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By Caitlin

PictureA building at the center of the where the bomb hit; one of the only remaining buildings.

As we made our way through Japan, and Japanese people asked us about where we were visiting next, they seemed to expect us to say Hiroshima. As if we were morally responsible, as Americans, to witness it (although that may have just been our misunderstood perception).  While not usually on the typical tourist itinerary, we were curious to witness the post-war city, that was reputedly thriving and beautiful. 




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And it was both of those things. Next to a bay with dozens of small islands a short boat ride away and rolling hills forming the inland boundary of the city, You might never know that just 70 years ago, the city was devastated by the 1st nuclear weapon to ever be deployed in a war. It is now a modern Japanese city that was rebuilt from ashes and rubble. A beautiful monument to the catastrophe sits in the middle of the city, just near where the bomb went off. 

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However, I'm primarily writing this to convey that visiting the Hiroshima Peace Museum was the most devastating musuem and one of the most profound experiences I've ever had.  Consisting of victims stories and belongings and survivors' accounts of the day and months that followed were truly horrific. As something we've all learned about as a grave and important decision undertaken by the Allies to hasten the end of WWII, it was still utterly different to see the human side of it.  While the justifications for dropping the atomic bomb are not argued in this post or even within the museum, which focuses on nuclear disarmament and securing world peace, it is impossible to not question the event for what it was: one of the darkest events in the history of humanity. 

It was particularly heavy-hitting to us, after having spent 2 weeks in Japan and being steeped in the kindness and generosity of the Japanese people we met.  I did not get the sense that the Japanese are vengeful about the events in Hiroshima or Nagasaki at all and found their resilience and dedication to peace remarkable. And without making this too political, I think we could do more as a society to remember the deaths and experience of those 135,000 people who lost their lives to end the largest war of the 20th century.  

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Images of burnt children
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Children's clothing from the day the bomb was dropped
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Really horrific mannequins showing the melted skin of victims
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Enjoying Being Lost in Translation (Japan)

2/7/2015

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By Caitlin

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I was not expecting to love Japan. I initially argued against its inclusion on our itinerary because I thought it would break the budget. Now, I'm so glad we ventured here, even though it was frustrating at times. Plus, outside of Tokyo, it turned out to be much more budget-friendly than I was expecting.

Over and over again, Japan felt like the exact opposite of America.  Despite being a similarly "modern" country, it felt as opposite as east and west.  Some examples: you board buses at the back and pay before you get off (as opposed to boarding at the front and paying as your board); there are no trash cans anywhere (yet no litter!);  traditional beds are just mats on the floor (and way more comfortable than that sounds); and I could write a whole blog on bizarre toilets and bathrooms alone! In short, Japan is weird. It feels like the most foreign place I've ever been and I found it really fascinating.

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Japan is tech-y, tall, and over-stimulating. 

Flashing lights, tv screens and hoards of people: Tokyo is just as imagined. There are shops and neon signs for 10 and 12 stories up in every building.  Not being able to read Japanese, you might not even realize there are different restaurants and bars on each floor unless you investigate the building. We stayed in an area called Shibuya, near the busiest intersection in the city, which has become iconic for the crush of people that cross the massive intersection at once. Giant malls are all over the place and you could spend a week exploring the labyrinth of shops in one mall alone. Half the neon signs in Tokyo, Osaka and other hyper-urban areas are dedicated to one of Japan's favorite pastimes: karaoke. These are massive complexes. There is at least one multi-story karaoke complex in every block. I have to admit that after experiencing the indulgence of karaoke, I'm a little jealous America doesn't have the same karaoke appreciation.  Japan is also super high-tech. I mentioned the toilets. Even basic public toilets have a keypad of buttons to enhance your toilet experience. I never figured out what half of the buttons did, but those that i did, seriously altered your typical trip to the toilet (I'll leave the details to your imagination). Jed loved exploring the electronics stores that were often 4 or 5 stories tall, full of random gadgets never-before-seen.

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A mega complex all for Karaoke
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Japan is traditional, artful, religious.

Gardens, tea ceremonies, kimonos, origami and stunning Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines: just some of the more well-known aspects of Japanese art and religion. I could and did spend hours wandering in and out of shops of beautiful ceramics and textiles shops in Kyoto. I even stalked a few ladies in beautiful kimonos to get a good picture, since they were dressed for traditional ceremonies or visiting temples. Every meal is beautifully presented and proportioned, even the simplest and cheapest ones.  Even in the chaos of Tokyo, we found beautiful gardens and tidy, residential neighborhoods that exuded Zen. The gardens surrounding some of the temples in Kyoto were still peaceful and colorful despite the beginning of winter. 

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Japanese people are the nicest, most gracious we have encountered.  

I'm not sure why I was surprised but we met so many lovely people all over Japan. Cultural values of honor and hospitality coupled with a deep love of their traditions equaled amazing people and great cultural exchanges. People were very helpful and eager to meet and talk with us about all kinds of things...especially Japanese cars.


Like I said in the beginning, at times traveling in Japan was really frustrating. Not a lot of people spoke English and outside of touristy areas, things were not written in English either. We traveled by train which was generally easy, but the chaos of the stations and the public transit, particularly in Tokyo and Osaka, was difficult to navigate. Wandering around was fun and interesting but looking for something specific often led to “Lost in Translation” moments (or hours). Despite the frustrations, Japan was amazing because of the people and the culture. For anyone not wearing their Adventure Pants I would recommend an organized tour, but it ended up being the number one place we can't wait to return to. 

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